Tuesday, August 23, 2022

Rediscovering Grand Teton National Park (part one)

This past weekend was my third trip down to Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) this summer. While originally I was booked to camp in Yellowstone for Saturday and Sunday nights, I ended up doing a late audible using Wyndham Rewards points to book a free night at the Super 8 in Jackson.  (The AARP rate was nearly $250, so it was an easy decision to "spend" 15,000 points for the night's stay.)

My plans changed for a couple of reasons . . . first was the weather.  As I was leaving the south entrance from Yellowstone to GTNP, I encountered a pretty heavy hail storm.  About a couple of hours later, I could see lightning south of me . . . and soon, I was hearing the thunder too.

The second, which actually was an extension of the very reason I was going there in the first place, was to see & photograph moose.  Initially, I was hoping to get to the Moose/Wilson Road area by 6pm and then spend about an hour looking and hoping to see them.

As I made my way south, I opted to check out the Oxbow Bend area of the Snake River. I had heard reports of a "big grizzly boar" in the area, and thought I could afford a few minutes there.  I met a guy who was photographing the birds (mostly osprey and eagles).  We got to chatting (remember, there are no strangers . . . only friends we've yet to meet) and he soon realized I was on a mission for MOOSE!

He suggested I make my way to the Gros Ventre River area, heading towards the campground out that way.  But he also suggested with the cloud cover, I get going as it would be darker earlier.  I decided to forego the Moose/Wilson Road and head in the other direction based on the advice of my new friend.  As I headed further south, it was becoming clear to me that it would be VERY late (after 10pm) before making my way to my Bridge Bay campsite, so I scrambled to find lodging in Jackson.

I rolled through the Gros Ventre area, including the campground.  Saw a lot of elk, but no moose.  Feeling defeated, I headed on to my hotel and got settled in for the night.

For a quick moment, I thought about stopping in at the world famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar for an adult beverage, but then thought better of it.  I was already tired (having left my campsite before 7am) and just wanted to call David and go to bed.

I did roll by my favorite little vintage era bowling alley at the Jackson Elks Lodge, but as expected, it was closed.  I would have stopped and had a beer there with the guys, had they been open.

The next morning I was awake and out around 8am; it felt good to sleep in for once.  I picked up some breakfast "snack items" to go, and headed out for Gros Ventre River again.  The guy told me that while dusk was good, he had NEVER been disappointed in the early morning.  I only hoped that 8:30am would be "early" enough.




I was rewarded almost immediately with the sighting of a couple of bulls.  They looked to be younger guys, munching on the willows along the river on the opposite side of where I was parked.  While I took a lot of photos from a long range, there were only a handful that were decent enough to share here.

While I did roll up and down the road looking for more, I didn't see any others, nor did any of the local wildlife tour guides.  So I feel pretty fortunate to see and photograph what I could.

From there I did roll down the Moose/Wilson Road to an area I've had great success at before.  Sadly, no moose in their usual places, so I didn't linger long as there were other places I wanted to explore.

When I did the Solitude raft float trip last month, our guide pointed out the Menor's Ferry Historic District along the Snake River.  He highly recommended checking out the old ferry as well as the historical buildings of William (Bill) Menor's 1894 homestead.  I had never toured this area, so I was excited to include it during this trip.
This is the original homestead cabin of Bill Menor.  It had been added on to a couple of times to expand living space and add a general store.
This is a replica of the ferry Menor built and operated on the Snake River to help locals get across.  It was quite ingenious what he created, with a pulley system to move the ferry across.
In the barn are several old coaches and even a sled for use in the winter.
In 1918 Maude Noble bought the ferry from Menor, and had this cabin moved from its original location on Cottonwood Creek.  This is where in 1923 the initial discussion and plans were made to create Grand Teton National Park.  It took some time but in 1929 it became a reality.  In 1949 John D. Rockfeller, Jr. donated over 32,000 acres to create what is now the footprint of the national park.

Unfortunately the Noble Cabin was not open to the public but I did snap this photo peering in through one of the windows.

Another historical building located in the Menor Ferry Historic District is the Chapel of the Transfiguration, on land donated by Maude Noble.  Local residents attended services here in the 1920's & 1930's.  Today St. John's Episcopal Church in Jackson still conducts services here for locals and visitors alike.

While the church building is lovely, it pales in comparison to the view from inside!  The photo doesn't go it justice, as it really looks like a painting on the wall.

I am so thankful for the suggestion to visit here . . . and the fact that after losing 50 lbs this year, I can actually get out and walk around places like this without worrying about my knees or asthma.

TO BE CONTINUED!




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